Fried & True by Lee Brian Schrager

Author:Lee Brian Schrager [Schrager, Brian Lee]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 978-0-7704-3523-3
Publisher: Crown Publishing Group
Published: 2014-05-20T04:00:00+00:00

PART I: Sleuthing a Classic

ONE OF MY ALL-TIME FAVORITE versions of fried chicken comes from Popeyes, the New Orleans-inspired chain of fast-food joints founded by Al Copeland in 1972 and named after the Gene Hackman character in The French Connection. The combination of crunchy, crenellated crust and juicy meat—all infused with a heady mix of spices—makes for guilty-pleasure eating I never tire of. Popeyes is a cult favorite among regular N’Awlins citizens, and nationwide foodies and chefs alike. Fans have spent considerable time debating the chain’s secret ingredients and proprietary techniques (both shrouded in mystery) and posting loving tributes to the company’s biscuits and red beans and rice.

From the minute I heard Popeyes had a test kitchen in their corporate headquarters in Atlanta, Georgia, I knew I had to pay them a visit. But how to gain access? I’d been inside some pretty exclusive cooking lairs, but convincing Popeyes to let us in became an intricate negotiation complete with nondisclosure agreements and a reasonable amount of begging. We received our golden ticket from Popeyes chief global branding officer, Dick Lynch. Soon we found ourselves, finally, inside the spacious, industrialstyle test kitchen itself in Atlanta. In one corner, white-jacketed workers measured the brix (sugar content) of sauces in development. “Stay away from that area,” research and development chef Marshall Scarborough warned us when we tried to take a peek. But then, displaying a surprising amount of transparency, he took us through the paces of making of a batch of Popeyes spicy fried chicken as Lynch stood watching nearby.

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